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By North Coast 500
Published: 14th July 2021

Explore Mackay country!

Moine House

Mackay Country can seem wild, empty and remote but appearances can be deceptive. Delve a little deeper and you will find features hidden in the landscape showing how humans have lived and influenced their environment for over 6,000 years.

Clan Mackay Gathering 1988, outside the Strathnaver Museum

As the name implies, this ancient province stretching from its eastern border with Caithness at the Split Stane to north Assynt, was home to Clan Mackay. Descendants of these bygone Mackay’s still inhabit this land and the progenies of the many who left these shores return each year to stand where their ancestors once stood. Discover your own hidden gems or find out more from Strathnaver Museum below!


A delightful short walk

A former Mackay stronghold dating from the 14th century, Castle Varrich at Tongue is said to have been built upon a Norse fortification. Those who take the time to wander up to the Castle will be rewarded with stunning views across the Kyle of Tongue.Perhaps unsurprisingly then there is a whole room dedicated to Clan Mackay within the Strathnaver Museum in Bettyhill housing a collection of memorabilia and family histories belonging to the Clan Mackay Society, making it a must see for anyone of Mackay descent or interested in Clan Mackay.

Castle Varrich


It’s a mystery!

Of course, human habitation of this land began long before the emergence of Clan Mackay and the area hosts a rich and varied history. High on the hill above Loch Eriboll the adventurous will find an unusually well preserved wheelhouse, Tigh na Fiarnain (House of the Fingalians). Mystery surrounds this wheelhouse (a stone built round dwelling dating from 100BC to AD 100) as it is a type common to Caithness rather than Sutherland. But why was it built 900ft above sea level on uncultivatable barren rock?


Take a detour

If you detour inland just before the small settlement of Hope as you travel east and journey along the eastern bank of Loch Hope you will come across the impressive Dun Dornaigil Broch just south of Altnacaillich. Brochs are a type of fortification unique to Scotland and there are hundreds scattered across Caithness and Sutherland. Dun Dornaigil has withstood time’s tests well and its walls stand an impressive 6.7 metres high. For those interested in learning more about brochs the Caithness Broch Project are doing some exciting work on the other side of the Split Stane.

Dun Dornaigil Broch, south of Altnacaillich

Altnacaillich is famous as the birth place of renowned Gaelic poet Rob Donn (brown-haired Rob) Mackay. Celebrated by scholars his work is as important to Gaelic poetry as Robert Burns is to poetry in Scots. Mackay Country Trust and Strathnaver Museum are staging an 18 month celebration of Donn’s work so be sure to keep an eye out for a programme of ceilidhs and other events throughout 2017/2018.

Strathmore Valley Sutherland


Discover the unknown!

The Unknown, Borgie Glen created by artist Kenny Hunter

It’s not just archaeology that’s to be found in this beautiful corner of the Highlands, journey to Borgie Glen just off the main NC500 route and you will discover the enigmatic The Unknown. You may even catch a glimpse of red deer or buzzards! While along the coast you’ll be spoilt for places to watch wildlife and may even be lucky enough to spot some whales and dolphins!

Common dolphins


Pristine golden beaches

Be sure to stop and take a stroll along some of the pristine golden beaches or if you are feeling particularly brave why not fly above one on the Golden Eagle Zip Line! Travel the 227 metres, over 30 metres above Ceannabeinne Beach at 40mph or take a more sedate stroll along the Ceannabeinne Township Trail. Once a thriving township Ceannabeinne is thought to have been one of the last areas targeted during the Highland Clearances. Cleared of several families in the early 1840s the inhabitants did not go quietly and the protest they made has become known as the Durness Riot.

Ceannabeinne Township Trail, by Durness


Discover the history of the area

Strathnaver Museum, volunteers

A great place to discover the history of the area is the Strathnaver Museum located in the former parish church of St Columba in Bettyhill. It contains a treasure trove of unusual objects and gripping stories all presented by a friendly, enthusiastic and knowledgeable volunteer staff.

Farr Stone, standing outside the Strathnaver Museum

Chealamy Beaker, discovered during roadworks 1981

The collection contains a range of items from pre-history to life in the early 20th century. Highlights include the Bronze Age Chealamay Beaker, the enigmatic Pictish Farr Stone and a dogskin buoy!

Strathnaver was scene of some of the most notorious acts of the Highland Clearances and deserted settlements can still be seen scattered throughout the landscape. It is perhaps unsurprising that the Highland Clearances is the main story told by the Museum. You can bear witness to the vanished settlements and visit the remains of some haunting pre – and post – Clearance villages such as Rosal, Achanlochy and Poulouriscaig. Pick up a Strathnaver Trail map from the Strathnaver Museum.

Poulouriscaig, post-clearance village, north west of Armadale

It was from the very pulpit which dominates the centre of the building that the Rev. David Mackenzie was obliged to read out eviction notices to his congregation. It was also witness to the Napier Commission in 1883 which heard evidence from the people of north Sutherland resulting in improvements to the people lives.


Go to a ceilidh!

Ceilidh dancing at a Sutherland Sessions event

Despite the more recent harrowing history of its people the area is vibrant and full of life. Each year every village hosts a varied programme of events and activities from the traditional, to the educational to the frivolous. Take advantage of the famous Mackay Country hospitality while you’re here and sample a traditional ceilidh (have an instrument? Then bring it along!), attend a heritage talk or build a sandcastle. You’ll find local What’s On pages on  Visit Sutherland.

(Please note that due to ongoing Covid-19 restrictions events may be not be running at the moment).

All the sites listed above can be found on the free Venture North Heritage app for Android and iOS. For those without a smart phone you can view a web version here.

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