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By North Coast 500
Published: 11th February 2022

Take a walk through time in Caithness

Caithness is a true historic and cultural gem. Brimming with myths, legends and stories of real life events – this is a county worth stopping in.

Gruesome imprisonment, haunted castles, mysterious sea creatures and architectural marvels – Caithness has its fair share of fascinating historical and contemporary wonders. Keep scrolling to find out why you need to wander this wonderful part of the North Highlands, what to look out for and some super stories we bet you haven’t heard before.

Sinclair’s Bay (c) Helen Hotson/Adobe Stock Images

So much history

Along the east coast lie many small harbour towns and fishing villages whose roots lie in the Scottish Fishing Industry. Best explored on foot, these picturesque and unique places are perfect for spending a morning or afternoon wandering around to soak up the history that still lingers in the streets. The Whaligoe Steps are well worth a visit while you’re in the area – dating back to the 18th Century, this cliffside staircase was used by fishwives to transport freshly caught fish from the sea back up to land. Even on a fine day the steps are steep and windy; it’s easy to imagine how treacherous the path would have been when it was blowing a hooley!

Situated in John O’Groats (the most northerly part of the British Isles mainland) is the last water-powered grain mill built in Scotland. After exploring the local sights and taking a photo by the famous sign, indulge in some delicious food. When it comes to seafood in Caithness, you don’t get much fresher than Scrabster Seafood Bar & Takeaway or the Captain’s Galley. They serve fish that’s landed on their doorstep which means the menu changes daily depending what the boats bring in!

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Photos: Northern Sands Hotel | Reay Golf Club| Whaligoe Steps | Captain’s Galley 

Ancient sites

Keep your eyes peeled for ‘Brochs’. These fascinating Iron Age buildings from c. 2000 years ago are the tallest prehistoric structures found in the British Isles. They are marvels of architecture and engineering. On your way north to Caithness or south to Inverness, stop at Forse of Nature’s café and craft shop.

The ruins of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe are a sight to behold. The castle, which has a rather sinister history of battle, siege and imprisonment, stands proudly on a cliff looking out across the North Sea. In 1577, the 4th Earl of Caithness imprisoned his son, John Sinclair, for 7 years. The Earl’s son eventually died of thirst after being fed nothing but salt beef. At the other end of Sinclair’s Bay is Keiss Castle which perches precariously on the very northern point of the mainland. The beaches surrounding Keiss were used to defend Caithness, and the rest of the UK, during World War Two. Want to learn more about the history of Caithness? Take a guided tour with North Coast Explorer.

If you are a golf fan, Wick Golf Club it situated not far from these castle ruins and is the oldest established club on the NC500. It offers a great course overlooking incredible scenery. After a day of discovery, book a room at Mackay’s Hotel in Wick. The award-winning hotel, which is situated on the shortest street in the world, is perfect for a Highland getaway. Enjoy a discount if you’re an NC500 Member.

Dotted around this part of the NC500 are many curious historic sites. The Hill o’ Many Stanes is a mysterious place where more than 200 stones have been erected in rows on a hillside, thought to be a historic site of religious significance. To see Caithness from a different perspective, take an off-road tour through Flow Country with Farm Buggy Tours. On their traditional family-run hill farm you’ll meet animals like Highland Cows and Pygmy Goats, as well as learn about the running of the farm and local history. If meeting animals sounds right up your street, why not pop in to North Coast 500 Alpacas? Meet friendly alpacas while taking in the incredible sea views of the east coast!

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Photos: Mackay’s Hotel | Farm Buggy Tours | NC500 Alpacas | North Coast Explorer

Crystal clear burns & local botanicals

Caithness has a long running history of distilling and brewing. The abundant supply of cold, pristine running water meant it was an ideal location for distillers both historically and today. The clean air and undisturbed nature result in a rich supply of local botanicals.

Make sure you visit Dunnet Bay Distillers, creator of the multi-award-winning Rock Rose Gin and Holy Grass Vodka. From the most northerly coast of mainland Scotland, the eco-friendly, family-owned business runs its own Distillery, hand-crafting a range of gins and vodkas reflecting the purity and beauty of the Scottish coastline. These elegant and subtle spirits celebrate the heritage and provenance of Caithness, using many locally-foraged and home-grown botanicals to create exceptional, eco-friendly spirits. Join them at the distillery to learn a wee bit more about their spirits, the botanicals, Elizabeth and Margaret – their fabulously shiny stills! Enjoy a delicious Rock Rose Gin & Tonic by their wood-burning stove before walking over to see where the ‘magic’ happens. A tutored tasting of three of their delicious spirits around their Tasting Table and a wee goody bag concludes their tour! You can also purchase the official NC500 gin at the distillery. Book a tour for 2022 now!

While in Dunnet, stay at Northern Sands for views over the beach and cosy accommodation. Dunnet Bay is two miles of fantastic sweeping white sandy beach backed by rolling sand dunes. On windy days it makes for great surfing!

If single malt Scotch whisky is your thing, Old Pulteney Distillery in Wick should be on your itinerary. Renowned as ‘The Maritime Malt’, Old Pulteney’s single malt is distilled in Wick – formerly known as the herring capital of Europe. Going even further back in time, Wolfburn Distillery’s fascinating history dates back to the Viking era, and so too do the cold clear waters (or ‘burn’) that feed the distilling process. Well worth a visit!

If you’re more of a beer person – John O’Groats Brewery is a real find. Located in the building where descendants of Jan De Groot (the village’s namesake) lived, the brewery is steeped in colourful history and heritage.

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Photos: Dunnet Bay Distillery 

Ghosts & ghouls

With a history of settlers dating back to the 9th Century, it’s no wonder people say parts of Caithness are haunted. Stories include haunted Viking burial mounds, plague victim spectres and spirits occupying towers.

The foundations of a building site in Thurso disturbed a plague burial mound dating back to the 14th Century. Since this, there have been strange goings on and people have reported odd sightings late at night.. So while you’re in the area, watch out for paranormal activity! For somewhere to stay in Thurso, Apartment 65B is in an ideal location, or for somewhere more rural, Forss House Hotel.

During your trip to Caithness, you must visit the Castle and Gardens of Mey. Enjoy something to eat and drink in the Tearoom, take a stroll through the Walled Garden and Woodland and visit the Animal Centre with the little ones. The castle also offer guided tours of where the Queen mother spent her time in Mey.

While there watch out for the Green Lady of the Castle of Mey. The story goes that the 14th Earl of Caithness’ daughter fell in love with a stable-hand; her father disapproved and the boy was sent south. Legend has it that Lady Fanny Sinclair was so heartbroken and distraught that she took her own life by throwing herself from a window, and her ghost is said to haunt the grounds to this day. Ghost hunting is a hungry business! Fuel up for your adventure with some homemade bakes from Annie’s Bakery or buy some goodies to take home for friends and family.

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Photos: Thrumster House | Castle & Gardens of MeyForss House Hotel | Annie’s Bakery

Myths, legends & folklore

Discover the place where the legend of Selkies came alive. Capturing the imaginations of generations of Scots, Selkies are seal people that live beneath the waves. They are said to wear the skins of seals and are so incredibly beautiful that land-folk attempt to capture them. If a Selkie loses their skin, they are unable to return to the sea where their hearts belong. So keep a look out for Selkies on your North Coast 500 trip to Caithness, but make sure you keep your distance! We can’t guarantee you’ll see a Selkie, but you are likely to see some of Scotland’s most incredible native wildlife, ruined castles, hidden caves, lighthouses and more on a tour with Caithness Seacoast.

With such a rich history of culture and intriguing folklore, it’s easy to see how Caithness inspires creativity. Grab a coffee and browse the intricate artistic works of Lindsey Gallacher in her Studio and Workshop in Thurso. Ortak craft timeless Celtic designs and delicate sea inspired enamel jewellery in their studio at John O’Groats. Their locally inspired pieces are ideal to remind you of your NC500 trip. The Lybster Studio features wonderful crafts from 30 talented Caithness crafters – the perfect place to pick up holiday gifts.

Caithness is one of the best places in Scotland to see the Northern Lights – or ‘Mirrie Dancers’ as they’re sometimes known up north. To have the best chance of seeing them, you need the coldest, clearest night skies – and Caithness on the north-east coast of Scotland is just the place! Helsmsdale Lodge and Hostel is a great base for outdoor enthusiasts, independent and group travellers, families, walkers, cyclists and motor cyclists on their NC500 travels. Make sure you keep a look out for the Northern Lights while staying on the east coast!

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Photos: Ortak | Caithness Seacoast  | Lindsey Gallacher Studio & Workshop | John O’Groats Ferries

A journey through Caithness is best taken slowly to ensure you don’t miss any of the fascinating sights along the way. Historic wonders, incredible coastal views, spectacular seascapes, art galore and so much more await you.

Discover Caithness

It’s important to note that not all businesses in the Highlands are open during the winter months (some are taking a well-deserved rest!) so make sure to check winter opening times with individual businesses ahead of your trip to avoid disappointment.

To get the most from your trip, download the North Coast 500 App (available on Apple App Store and Google Play) for top tips, stories and more.

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